Cutting the 1/8" 1095 steel plate to size. I buy it in 8"x 12" sheets I cut the one down to manageable strips before I left school. After this I file the edges square and fit it to the plane body. I also lap the back.
I've got candles on my workbench, I use them to light blowtorches etc. I blackened the back of the iron and set it in the body, set the wedge. Now I can see exactly where I need to remove material. It's a little slow going, and I have some more to do. The bottom shows what it looks like after the first markup.
Here I'm profiling the wedge into something a little more comfortable. just done with a chisel, I like the look, and keep Krenov's words about how it should just be comfortable in mind as I pare.
Here we are, all that's left is to grind the bevel on the iron and harden it. Then some fettleing and wax and we're done.
Hi.I also make my own traditional wooden bodied hand planes. To check the blade bed for flatness I use ink carbon paper. A piece of flat steel slightly under the width of the bed is ideal. Cut the carbon paper slightly oversize to the flat steel so it can be tapped onto the back of the steel. Also fold over the 2 ends and tape onto the back. This helps to stop the carbon paper moving during the rubbing process. Continue removing high spots until ink rubbing shows a uniform spread across the blade bed. Hope it helps you . Planemaker
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